Badlapur Hike

Who knew that there was such gorgeous, open air scenery just hours from Bombay! I spent the day today on trek with about 20 others, mostly native Mumbaikers. It was a gorgeous, intense hike through field, forest and falls (water that is...) Everything was lush and green, alivened by the monsoon rains that are due to end any time now. It was a wonderful escape from the frantic pace of Mumbai and a great way to connect with some other like-minded people. The trek itself reminded me of others I've taken in Venezuela, Guatemala, Turkey and Macedonia.

Bandra at Night...

It's a big festival in my suburb of Bandra. Thousands and thousands of Christians come to see the Mary on the Mount and seek help. Along with these pilgrims come vendors, rides and street celebrations. This is all happening on Chapel road, which connects to the street I live on. (I've both enjoyed and been annoyed by the 80s/90s mix of American music blaring from 9 am-12 am every day for the last week. Personal favorites: "We Built this City," "I had the time of my life," "Knock three times.." You get the idea.) It was quite fun to wander around and see the many vendors selling everything from wax figures shaped like body parts (to be offered to Mary for help with ailments) to party hats, sweets and the like.

What festival would be complete without questionable, rickety fast rides with children and adults alike screaming in either fear or delight. These too were fun to check out....not to ride though! ("US teacher dies on Fair ride death trap..." Not the way I want to go.)

I also through in some footage here of the Bandra train station at night, where I met a friend. This station is part of the Mumbai rail network, which has the highest ridership (perhaps second behind Tokyo) in the world. Quite a spectacle!

More time in South Bombay...

My first blog video! I arrived at Chowpatty Beach before dusk. Already families were cheerfully marching to the Arabian Sea to immerse their Ganesh statues. As part of Ganesh Chaturthi, families give offerings to Ganesh statues and ask for the wisdom that Ganesh is known for. After paying homage to the idol for somewhere between 1-11 days, depending on individual family's preferences, they carry their Ganesh to the sea while chanting, dancing, beating drums and other signs of merriment. It is quite a spectacle. I was flattered when invited to participate in the singing and chanting: "Ganapathi Bappa Morya, Purchya Varshi Laukar ya" (O father Ganesha, come again early next year). It is really an exciting and fascinating time to by in Mumbai.

Sunday in South Bombay

Here are some photos from a trip downtown this Sunday. There was a political rally for Democrats abroad. (I don't mean to make the blog partisan...) The elephant structure is of Ganesh. Ganesh is a very common worshiped God in Bombay. Next weekend there is a massive festival, where Hindus submerge their Ganesh. For the next week plus, they will hold pujas and give offerings. (I have a lot to learn about this festival yet, but I'm excited to do so.)

Hare Krishna!

Inside the temple, no flash. I was told after these pictures not to take anymore.

Human pyramid, above. Treasures strung below...
The bus below is full of a team of guys heading to the next pot. Many wear matching t-shirts and practice for months! There was even a team from Spain this year...

Sunday was a celebration of Krishna in Mumbai (And many other parts of India as well!) I met up with my friend Vikram, who gave me the lowdown on his family's puja and the background behind the Krishna vestivities.

Here's my understanding of it...Hindus believe in Brahman (not to be confused with Brahmin, which means priest). Brahman is the all powerful universal force. Hindus believe that Brahman can take any form that they want it to. Thus there are many gods, Krishna and Ganesh for example, that Hindus pray to. Now, it's important to recognize that Hindus are not practicing idolatry by praying to these gods, as they are still focusing their energy towards Brahman. (I think...)

So, on this particular day, which rotates every year due to the Hindu solar/lunar calendar, Krishna is honored. Many Hindus who focus on Krishna more specifically go to temple to offer puja to the shrines. Even Hindus who worship other gods, like my friend Vikram who pays honors to Ganesh, will give homage to Krishna. So, Vikram and I went to the Hare Krishna temple in Juhu, a suburb a few north of Bandra. There, we were ushered in with many other worshipers. We took off our shoes and were led through a line up to the shrines. Many people were clapping in rhythm to the music being played. Others offered fruit and flowers to the Krishna shrines. Krishna was a fan of sweets and milk based foods.

Speaking of milk based foods, that leads to another tradition of the Krishna festival. People turnout in the streets in hordes to watch the human pyramids. Basically, large groups of guys (a few women teams too...although I didn't see any), travel all over the city looking for pots strung above the streets. When they see a pot, with sweets and cash strung along it, they build a human pyramid. I saw some stack 4-5 levels of people high. Once they have constructed this human tower, the person on top, likely a light weight kid, uses his head to crush open the pot. Curd, milk and butter come splashing on the pyramid, and they share in the spoils of their winnings.

The tradition itself is rooted in a story about Krishna's love of milk based sweets. As it goes, Krishna's mother was tired of him getting in to the butter all the time, so she stored it up high. Krishna then gathered his friends together to build a pyramid so that they could reach the forbidden sweets.

All in all, it was a very interesting and enjoyable cultural experience! Hare (Praise) Krishna!
And a final clarification, Hare Krishna is a rare proselytizing branch of Hinduism. But the phrase itself simply means praise Krishna.

Biking in Bandra

My security guard.




I went for a ride on Indian Independence Day. I found a bike repair shop, where I had my fender straightened out for 5 rupees (about 12 cents.) Can you imagine in the states, "Hey could you please fix my fender, I'll give you 12 cents..."

I biked along Carter road, which boarders the Arabian sea. It's about 5 minutes from where I live. A lot of garbage collects here during monsoon time, but I've heard that it clears up around December. Not a lot of other anecdotes to go with these pictures, sorry.

A stroll and some flowers....

I spent the day wandering around and stumbled on to a flower seller on the street. It was a bit expensive for Mumbai standards (I think), 250 rupees for a massive bouquet of sweet smelling flowers. I split up the flowers in 3 different rooms of my apartment.